 One of my favorite Redcat vehicles of all time is the Team Redcat TR-SC10E. Unfortunately, that truck was discontinued a while ago and all remaining TR-SC10E parts and upgrades are now being sold off cheap on the Clearance Page
Don't miss your chance to stock up on parts for your TR-SC10E while you can If you're interested, here are some old blog posts I wrote a while back all about my personal TR-SC10E project Part 1 - New Body Part 2 - ESC Mount Part 3 - Front Bumper Part 4 - Wheel Nuts Part 5 - Aluminum Rear Hubs and Aluminum Steering Knuckles Part 6 - Rear End Upgrades Part 7 - Front End Upgrades Part 8 - Ball Cups Part 9 - Battery Tray Part 10 - Tires Part 11 - Savox Servo Part 12 - Transmitter Upgrade Part 13 - T-Bone Racing Front Bumper Part 14 - Aluminum Shocks  Just a quick update today to let you know that a few TR-SC10E parts have just arrived. The following parts are back in stock and ready to order:
UPDATE: All TR-SC10E parts have now moved to the clearance page 'till next time - stay safe Rob  Just a quick update today to let you know of a few changes that happened this weekend:
1. The studio shots of the new Redcat Kaiju have been delivered by the photographer and they turned out great. If you'd like to take a look, you can find them on the Kaiju page here. I've also uploaded more photos of the Kaiju parts and will continue to add more information and details to the Kaiju parts pages as time permits. 2. Several TR-SC10E upgrade parts are on clearance at VERY low prices. I suggest grabbing these while you can as once these clearance parts are sold out, they won't be coming back. 3. Last but not least, another big order of Gen8 parts and upgrades has arrived including Clear Bodies, LED light kits, CNC Steel Transmission Gears, Flat Bottom Skid Plates, Portal Housings, several aluminum upgrade parts and more. 'till next time Rob UPDATE: All Gen8 and Kaiju parts can now be found on the parts page. To find them quickly, visit the parts page then select your vehicle from the Current Vehicles list. Unfortunately, the TR-SC10E trucks and parts have been discontinued. Check the clearance page to see if any TR-SC10E parts are remaining  Holy cow, I just stumbled on this amazing deal on some Team Redcat TR-SC10E short course trucks. This seller (not me) is selling them at below cost! If you've been thinking about picking up one of these trucks, now is the time.
The TR-SC10E is one of my all time favorite Redcat vehicles and for this price, I really don't think you can go wrong. Here are some blog posts I wrote about my personal TR-SC10E that you may also like: Part 1 - New Body Part 2 - ESC Mount Part 3 - Front Bumper Part 4 - Wheel Nuts Part 5 - Aluminum Rear Hubs and Aluminum Steering Knuckles Part 6 - Rear End Upgrades Part 7 - Front End Upgrades Part 8 - Ball Cups Part 9 - Battery Tray Part 10 - Tires Part 11 - Savox Servo Part 12 - Transmitter Upgrade Part 13 - T-Bone Racing Front Bumper Part 14 - Aluminum Shocks Part 15- Tekin Electronics And here's a post I wrote about some of the top TR-SC10E parts and upgrades that I recommend 'till next time Rob  The Hexfly 25KG High Torque Waterproof Servo is a perfect upgrade for your Redcat Racing and Team Redcat car, truck or buggy. Heck, I won't judge you if you install one in your Traxxas! With all metal gears and the included aluminum 25t servo arm, the Hexfly HX-3225 is perfect for almost every RC enthusiasts.
'till next time Rob UPDATE: All servos and servo accessories now available on the parts page  The first shipment of the new Hexfly HX-3225 25kg high torque, metal gear, waterproof servos sold out faster than expected but the good news is a second batch has just arrived. These servos are a great value and are perfect for almost any Redcat Racing or Team Redcat vehicle.
'till next time Rob UPDATE: All servos and servo accessories now available on the parts page  Coming soon, these new Hexfly HX-3225 25kg high torque, metal gear, waterproof servos are perfect for almost any Redcat Racing or Team Redcat vehicle and they will even include an aluminum 25t servo arm.
UPDATE: All servos are now available on the parts page. To find them quickly, visit the parts page then select your vehicle in the Current Vehicles list and all compatible servos will be shown  I just picked up a few more upgrades for my TR-SC10E project including a Tekin RX8 Gen3 ESC, Tekin 4300kv motor, and a Protek 170SBL servo. Also in the picture above is a FlySky FGr4 receiver that I'll be installing for use with my FlySky Noble transmitter  Here's a quick look at the 170SBL servo installed. This servo is substantially heavier than the Savox 1267SG that was in the truck but it appears to be well constructed. The servo itself was a straight forward install. I did notice that there is potential for the servo to move should the mounting screws ever become loose so I may use some servo mounting grommets in the future to take up some of the space between the screws and the servo tabs. I also installed a Protek 7819-BK aluminum servo horn but I'm not sure if I'll actually use this one or not. Because the horn is designed to be low profile, the servo linkage ball stud was touching the top of the receiver box. I had to move the ball stud from the bottom of the servo horn to the top. This created a fairly dramatic slope to the servo linkage. I'm not sure how this will effect the truck's steering geometry so I'll likely see what other servo horn I can find that is a closer match to the stock plastic one. I also took this time to mount a transponder in front of the servo.  The Tekin RX8 was a perfect fit for the TR-SC10E's ESC tray. It's almost as if the truck was designed for this ESC. I purchased a black case for the RX8 but when attempting to remove the white case, I stripped two of the tiny phillips head screws on the bottom of the case (I was using a 30 year old junk screwdriver). I suppose if I tried a little harder and perhaps purchased a new screwdriver, I would have been able to get the screws out but I decided to just use the white case for now. Compared to some of my Hobbywing ESC's, the Tekin is a little ugly looking and I definitely don't like the cheap on/off switch but I'm sure the performance will be good.  Here's the Tekin Motor installed. While I was installing the motor, I also added the aluminum center diff mount and cam style motor mount. The aluminum diff mount will help ensure everything stays where it should and the cam style motor mount will make pinion gear changes much easier. I'm not super happy with where the motor tabs are but the combination of cam style motor mount and where the holes are in the motor didn't allow me to put the tabs on the top as I would have preferred.  Here is everything wired up. I'm fairly satisfied with how it came together. I may make a few more minor adjustments but I think the truck is now ready to hit the track.
Notice that the servo horn ball stud is now on the bottom of the servo horn. The servo came with some shims that I added under the servo to raise it up just enough that I could return the ball stud to the under side of the servo horn. I'm still not 100% satisfied with this arrangement but, I think it will work. Also, the FlySky FGr4 receiver fit okay in the receiver box bit it's about 1/8" too tall so the servo box lid doesn't fit as snuggly as I'd like it too. Other than dremelling some material off of the top of the receiver and from the inside of the servo box lid, I'm not sure how to improve this situation either. That's it for now, I hope this helped you with your TR-SC10E upgrades. By the way, you can do me a HUGE favor by purchasing your TR-SC10E parts and hop-ups from me and also by using my Amazon link if you make any purchases at Amazon (they'll pay me a small commission) You can also check out some of my other TR-SC10E project posts here: Part 1 - New Body Part 2 - ESC Mount Part 3 - Front Bumper Part 4 - Wheel Nuts Part 5 - Aluminum Rear Hubs and Aluminum Steering Knuckles Part 6 - Rear End Upgrades Part 7 - Front End Upgrades Part 8 - Ball Cups Part 9 - Battery Tray Part 10 - Tires Part 11 - Savox Servo Part 12 - Transmitter Upgrade Part 13 - T-Bone Racing Front Bumper Part 14 - Aluminum Shocks 'till next time Rob  Other than high quality tires, well built shocks make some of the biggest improvement to a vehicle's handling characteristics. That is why I decided to upgrade my TR-SC10E to the aluminum shocks. The stock shocks work well and I've never had a problem with them but these aluminum bodied shocks look great and have threaded collars that will allow me to fine tune my truck's ride hight. Here's what I'll be using:
Let's get started...  I started the build with the front shocks. The instructions included with the shocks are great so this should be relatively straight forward.  I like to start my shock builds by soaking the o-rings in shock oil for a while. This helps to lubricate and swell the o-rings in preparation for installation in the shock bodies. The picture above shows the o-rings soaking in a small amount of shock oil  The next step was to install the o-rings inside the shock collars. They were a little fiddly but it only took a minute or so to get them nicely seated within the groove inside the shock collars  I like to add a small amount of black grease to the shock collar o-rings when installing them on the shock bodies. This helps them go on smoothly and also avoids accidentally loosening the shock cap when making ride height adjustments  Next up, I built the shock cartridges. This is where the Green Slime comes in. I like to add some of the green slide to the inside of the lower shock body and then add some to the o-rings. The plastic collars were a snug fit so I used a Tamiya box wrench to push them into place then used my fingernail to install the snap rings  The pistons where next. It's been a long time since I've built shocks that used e-clips...they suck! Thankfully Redcat includes an extra e-clip as one of them shot across the room when I was trying to install it. I heard it ting off of the wall but couldn't find it anywhere after that. I chose to use the 2-hole pistons for the front shock build. The stock shock setup has 1-hole pistons. By assembling these ones with the 2-hole pistons, I can easily swap between 1-hole and 2-hole pistons by changing the entire shock shaft assembly or even the entire shock itself. Did I mention that I hate e-clips?  I like to put some shock oil on the shock shaft threads and add a small amount of oil in the shock body before inserting the shafts. This helps protect the o-rings for leak causing damage  Although the instructions do not call for this, I added the plastic caps to the bottom of the shock bodies at this point. These caps don't fit perfectly but, without them, I feel the shock o-rings are too exposed to dirt and I just don't see that small snap ring being enough to keep everything in place Unfortunately, that's all I have time for today...I'll try to continue with this project later in the week... By the way, you can do me a HUGE favor by purchasing your TR-SC10E parts and hop-ups from me and also by using my Amazon link if you make any purchases at Amazon (they'll pay me a small commission)
You can also check out some of my other TR-SC10E project posts here: Part 1 - New Body Part 2 - ESC Mount Part 3 - Front Bumper Part 4 - Wheel Nuts Part 5 - Aluminum Rear Hubs and Aluminum Steering Knuckles Part 6 - Rear End Upgrades Part 7 - Front End Upgrades Part 8 - Ball Cups Part 9 - Battery Tray Part 10 - Tires Part 11 - Savox Servo Part 12 - Transmitter Upgrade Part 13 - T-Bone Racing Front Bumper 'till next time Rob  Last week I mentioned that I was going to start getting my TR-SC10E ready for this summer's outdoor racing season.
I haven't done much with my truck yet but I did take it out of storage and gave it a quick look over to refresh my memory of where I left off last season. After giving the truck an inspection, I put together a list of items to order and spare parts to have ready and thought I'd share that list of spare parts with you Here is my list of the top TR-SC10E spare parts you'll likely want to have in your pit bag:
Regarding the three parts listed above, the only reason you may want to have all three of these on hand is that the TM-26 turnbuckles tend to break and when they do, the plastic arm or ball end may be damaged as well. See my recommended upgrades below for a solution Now, back to the list
If you keep one or two of each of these parts in your pit bag, I think you should be okay for 90% of your parts needs. Here are a few parts that I have never personally broken but I have sold several of these as well:
Here is a list of the top TR-SC10E Upgrades I suggest:
Here are some handy tools and accessories
The TR-SC10E is a great handling truck and is quite durable as well. Having a few spares on hand will help keep your downtime to a minimum. A few upgrades will help as well but for the most part the truck doesn't need much. I could go on and on about tools and accessories but I'm sure you will find the items you like the best...hint, here a few to consider - vehicle stand, shock oils, diff fluids, high quality batteries and charger, upgraded transmitter, shock springs, pinion gears, turnbuckle wrench etc etc etc.... 'till next time Rob  I just received the schedule for my summer outdoor racing season and it starts in only six weeks so I guess I had better pull my son and my TR-SC10E trucks out of storage and get them ready for racing!
My truck's current status: During the winter, I sold all of the electronics out of my truck so I'll have to get some new parts on order. Here's what I have in mind:
Also during the winter, I purchase a FlySky Noble transmitter. It came with a huge 4 channel receiver. Thankfully there is plenty of room in the TR-SC10E receiver box so I'll be able to use the receiver in this truck. I'll rebuild the diffs with Associated Diff Fluid (7000 front, 7000 center, 5000 rear) and install the aluminum shocks with some Associated Shock Oils (40 in the front, 35 in the rear) My son's truck's current status: My son's truck is in a pretty poor state. I didn't even clean it before putting it into storage so I'm not looking forward to working on his but it has to be done. My plan for his truck is simply to detail it, rebuild the diffs and shocks and either clean or replace any damaged bearings then he'll be ready to hit the track in novice class By the way, you can do me a HUGE favor by purchasing your TR-SC10E parts and hop-ups from me and also by using my Amazon link if you make any purchases at Amazon (they'll pay me a small commission) You can also check out some of my other TR-SC10E project posts here: Part 1 - New Body Part 2 - ESC Mount Part 3 - Front Bumper Part 4 - Wheel Nuts Part 5 - Aluminum Rear Hubs and Aluminum Steering Knuckles Part 6 - Rear End Upgrades Part 7 - Front End Upgrades Part 8 - Ball Cups Part 9 - Battery Tray Part 10 - Tires Part 11 - Savox Servo Part 12 - Transmitter Upgrade Part 13 - T-Bone Racing Front Bumper 'till next time Rob  Here's a fun RC car storage project I just completed using some Ikea Fintorp rods and hooks. I decided to stagger the bars to match the slope of my ceiling and also to clear the printer but you can easily create one long rod if that works better for you. To complete the project, I used:
 This will easily store four 1/10 scale RC cars or trucks. It was a simple project, I hope you like it.
'till next time. Rob  Now that my outdoor racing season is over, it's time to put my TR-SC10E race truck aside temporarily and start to work on other projects including my Tamiya Euro Truck, and Everest Gen7 Pro. I'd also like to find some time to test the new Camo X4....so many projects...so little time.
I'd still like to do a few things to my TR-SC10E this winter though. Here's what I have in mind:
Here's how you can help... You can help me with this project...please do me a HUGE favor and purchase your TR-SC10E parts from me and, if you plan to purchase anything on AMAZON (RC related or otherwise) please use this referral link. Amazon will pay me a small commission and I'll use that toward buying some of the parts I need for my truck. Thanks for your support, I really appreciate it. 'till next time Rob  When my son and I started racing our TR-SC10E trucks earlier this summer, we were quite poor drivers and damage was a pretty common occurrence. That's why I ordered these T-Bone Racing front bumpers. Now that our driving skills have improved, it's rare that anything breaks on our trucks but now that I have these new bumpers, I'll give them a try. In the photo above, the bumper on the left is called the "Racer". It's a little narrower and has some large holes drilled in it. I'll install this one on my personal TR-SC10E. The bumper on the right is called the "Basher" It's a tiny bit wider than the "Racer" and has smaller holes drilled in it - T-Bone Racing says you can install LED lights in these holes if you want to. This one if for my son...he's still a little rough on his truck. T-Bone also offers a rear bumper for the TR-SC10E but I decided no pass on that for now. Here's the "Racer" installed on my truck:  The bumper sits rather low when compared to the stock bumper. I prefer the look of the stock bumper and how it tucks nicely under the front lip of the body. This T-Bone bumper is just kinda sticking out from the front of the truck.  Here's the side view of the "Racer" bumper installed. It looks a little odd with that big gap between the bumper and the body.  Note the "Racer" bumper's narrow brace with single screw vs the "Basher" bumper's wider brace with two screws. This "Racer" bumper is also slightly narrower than the Basher and has four large holes drilled in it - presumably to lighten the bumper slightly.  Here's the bottom view of the "Racer" bumper installed. I do like how this T-Bone bumper also forms a skid plate under the chassis. The bumper is also nice and smooth so may help settle the truck down on a nose first landing.  Here's my son's stock front bumper vs my newly installed T-Bone "Racer" front bumper. I like how the stock front bumper tucks up tight to the body. When I rub my hand along the T-Bone bumper, it feels nice and smooth while the stock bumper has a sharp edge where it transitions under the chassis. This sharp edge was often packed with dirt after a race. Maybe the smoothness T-Bone will help smooth out bad/nose first landings. Here's the "Basher" bumper installed on my son's truck:  Unlike my "Racer" bumper, my son's "Basher" actually tucks up nicely to the body.  And here is a side view of the "Basher" bumper installed. It fits much better than my "Racer" bumper  The "Basher" bumper's support is a little wider than the "Racer" bumper and has two mounting screws vs the "Racer's" one screw. The holes in the "Basher" bumper are also smaller and the bumper is a little wider than the "Racer"  Here are our two trucks side-by-side. My son's is on the left with the Basher bumper and mine is on the right with the Racer bumper.
I really don't like how my bumper looks but I don't mind my son's. Perhaps the difference in fit is a quality control issue or maybe it's by design, I'm not sure. If you are in the market for a big ol' front bumper for your TR-SC10E, check out the Basher by T-Bone Racing. It's not the best looking bumper on earth but, I think it will do a good job of protecting your truck and as they say, you can win a race if you don't finish. You can also check out some of my other TR-SC10E project posts here: Part 1 - New Body Part 2 - ESC Mount Part 3 - Front Bumper Part 4 - Wheel Nuts Part 5 - Aluminum Rear Hubs and Aluminum Steering Knuckles Part 6 - Rear End Upgrades Part 7 - Front End Upgrades Part 8 - Ball Cups Part 9 - Battery Tray Part 10 - Tires Part 11 - Servo 'till next time Rob 'till next time Rob  Here's a quick shot from Redcat Racing's Facebook page that shows the full lineup of Team Redcat Vehicles. From top left:
Looking good Team Redcat! Now, maybe it's time for a competition level 1/10 buggy or stadium truck to go with the SC10E....come on....please please please I've been avoiding upgrading the transmitter in my TR-SC10e for some time. Primarily because I like to test the stock items as much as possible then report back to you with how well (or not) they work. I've tested the stock transmitter/receiver enough now and although they function perfectly, I'd like to have more adjustments such as EPA and Exponential so it's time to upgrade. I've decided to go with a FlySky FS-GT3C. Why I chose the FlySky FS-GT3C over other FlySky transmitters
I've actually been using an FS-GT3C in some of my other vehicles for about a year now and it has been great. The shape of the handle and position of the steering wheel feel really good in my hands and I've always been a fan of foam steering wheels vs plastic. I also like the fact that it has 10 model memory so I don't have to keep track of so many different transmitters. I plan to start replacing all of my stock transmitters with this unit.
What I like about the FS-GT3C
What I don't like about the FS-GT3C
FS-GT3C Review by Chauncey Smith Here's one of the better reviews I've found online Like I mentioned, I've been using this transmitter in other vehicles already so I feel very confident it will also work well in my TR-SC10e.
By the way, if you found this helpful, please do me a HUGE favor and support me by purchasing your TR-SC10E parts and hop-ups from me and also by using my Amazon links if you make any purchases at Amazon (servos or otherwise - they'll pay me a small commission) You can also check out some of my other TR-SC10E project posts here: Part 1 - New Body Part 2 - ESC Mount Part 3 - Front Bumper Part 4 - Wheel Nuts Part 5 - Aluminum Rear Hubs and Aluminum Steering Knuckles Part 6 - Rear End Upgrades Part 7 - Front End Upgrades Part 8 - Ball Cups Part 9 - Battery Tray Part 10 - Tires Part 11 - Servo 'till next time Rob If you read my race report earlier this month, you may remember that my stock servo packed it in at the start of my A-main...grrr. Oh, well...Amazon to the rescue. I ordered a Savox SC-1267SG Black Edition to replace the stocker Why I chose the SC-1267SG: Price was a consideration in choosing my new servo but durability and reliability was my primary concern. With so many servos on the market it was a bit of a difficult decision. My first option was to use the Savox SW-0231MG1 from the TR-MT10e truck as these are durable, cheap and I have them in stock. This is what my son is running in his TR-SC10e and it works great. This option probably would have been fine but I wanted to go with something a little more race oriented. My second consideration was to go with an ultra high end servo like a ProTek or Tekin but I'm not a pro racer and I doubt the high price tag would be worth it for me. I settled on the Savox SC-1267SG Black Edition because it fell right in between these two price points, it looks good in the Black Edition and all of the reviews and information I found online made me think it should be a reliable choice.  Stock servo still installed, Savox SC-1267SG Black Edition ready to go... The Savox SC-1267SG Black Edition comes in a nice plastic box that will come in handy for storing spare parts / screws etc. I also picked up a Protek RC PTK-7819-BK Aluminum Servo Horn while I was on Amazon. It looks okay but for the price, I think any cheap Amazon/China special would have been a better value.  The Savox servo includes everything shown here + a nice plastic box The Savox included some plastic servo horns, mounting hardware and a couple of sticker sheets. Oddly, the servo horn screw was a phillips head rather than a hex head so I chose to use the Redcat servo horn screw. I also used all of the stock mounting hardware.  The SC-1267SG was a perfect fit Here's the Savox installed in my TR-SC10e. The install was simple and I think it looks great in the truck. It dropped right into place with no issues whatsoever. I did however have to turn my dual rate down to around 73 or 74 to ensure the servo wasn't trying to move the steering linkage beyond it's limits. When I upgrade my transmitter at a later date, I'll use the EPA adjustments to do this properly but for now, the stock transmitter only offers dual rate adjustments so that will have to do. I also decided to use the stock plastic servo horn for now (will I regret this decision?) So far, the stock servo horn is working well and I figure the little tiny bit of flex in the horn may help protect the servo and other steering components. I'm looking forward to giving this new servo a real test but for now, I'm quite happy with my choice and would recommend the SC-1267SG.
By the way, if you found this helpful, please do me a HUGE favor and support me by purchasing your TR-SC10E parts and hop-ups from me and also by using my Amazon links if you make any purchases at Amazon (servos or otherwise - they'll pay me a small commission) You can also check out some of my other TR-SC10E project posts here: Part 1 - New Body Part 2 - ESC Mount Part 3 - Front Bumper Part 4 - Wheel Nuts Part 5 - Aluminum Rear Hubs and Aluminum Steering Knuckles Part 6 - Rear End Upgrades Part 7 - Front End Upgrades Part 8 - Ball Cups Part 9 - Battery Tray Part 10 - Tires 'till next time Rob  Battle scarred and dirty but ready for another day of racing My son and I just finished our second club race with our Team Redcat TR-SC10E trucks and for the most part, the day went well for both of us.
Here's how my son's day went: His TR-SC10E is 100% stock other than Lunsford Upper Suspension Links, ProLine Hole Shot tires on all four corners and a Savox SW0231 handling the steering duty. He entered the novice class and joined a couple of Traxxas Rustlers, some 2wd Traxxas Slashes, an Associated T5M, a TLR 22T and even a fully decked out Teckno SCT410.3 complete with a Tekin RX8 and Pro4. He managed to qualify for the 2nd spot in the B-Main and finished his B-Main in 2nd spot which immediately bumped him up to the A-Main where he finished 4th overall. Not bad for his second race ever! My day started quite well. I started the morning by chatting with a fast local driver who suggested I raise the ride height of my truck to around 30mm. I took his advice (and borrowed his ride height gauge) then managed to take the TQ and have the fastest lap in qualifying. I was running in the same novice class as my son. During my warm up lap in the A-Main I managed to tag a wall pretty hard and damage my steering servo. It was still working intermittently but was clearly having issues. I started the race on the pole but quickly dropped to last place as I simply couldn't steer with the damaged servo. I managed to finish the race but it was a pretty embarrassing performance. I just ordered myself a Savox SC1267SG Black Edition servo to replace the stock servo and a ProTek aluminum servo horn. I'll let you know how they works out once I install them. My son and I are still honing our race driving skills but are starting to improve and the SC10E trucks are doing great so hopefully we'll both improve for the race that's taking place in a couple of weeks. 'till next time. Rob As I learn more and more about the TR-SC10E and about racing in general, I've learned the importance of tire selection. After speaking with some of the more experienced guys at my track, everyone told me that ProLine Hole Shots were the hot ticket. I didn't think it would make much of a difference as I thought the stock TR-SC10E tires were pretty decent. Boy was I wrong! I installed some Hole Shots on a set of stock TR-SC10E wheels and by the time I had finished the first turn (a long sweeper) I knew everyone was absolutely correct about the ProLines. My truck performed like an entirely new vehicle. It was much more in control, the rear end was more planted and I could cary way more speed through the turns. If you are a racer, new tires would be my number one recommendation for improving your truck. Talk to the local guys and see what works well at your track then get yourself some ASAP...you won't regret it. Here's a link to the parts I used:
Here's that stock wheels and tires:  Stock TR-SC10E Wheels & Tires And these are the ProLine Hole Shots mounted to the stock wheels:  Not only do the ProLine's make a dramatic improvement to the truck, I think they look great on the stock wheels too.
By the way, if you found this helpful, please do me a HUGE favor and support me by purchasing your TR-SC10E parts and hop-ups from me and also by using my Amazon links if you make any purchases at Amazon (they'll pay me a small commission) You can also check out some of my other TR-SC10E project posts here: Part 1 - New Body Part 2 - ESC Mount Part 3 - Front Bumper Part 4 - Wheel Nuts Part 5 - Aluminum Rear Hubs and Aluminum Steering Knuckles Part 6 - Rear End Upgrades Part 7 - Front End Upgrades Part 8 - Ball Cups Part 9 - Battery Tray 'till next time Rob Here's a TR-SC10E project that is so quick and easy, I almost didn't bother to post it on the blog... I added some TR-MT10E EVA Tape (foam tape) to my SC10E battery tray to help protect my LiPo batteries a little. Here's the stock TR-SC10E battery tray:  Stock TR-SC10E Battery Tray And this is the battery tray after adding the TR-MT10E foam tape:  TR-MT10E Foam Tape Installed That's about as simple and easy of an upgrade as can be. I probably should have done a better cleaning job of the battery tray before installing the tape but I think it will work okay. By the way, if you found this helpful, please do me a HUGE favor and support me by purchasing your TR-SC10E parts and hop-ups from me and also by using my Amazon links if you make any purchases at Amazon (they'll pay me a small commission)
Part 1 - New Body Part 2 - ESC Mount Part 3 - Front Bumper Part 4 - Wheel Nuts Part 5 - Aluminum Rear Hubs and Aluminum Steering Knuckles Part 6 - Rear End Upgrades Part 7 - Front End Upgrades Part 8 - Ball Cups 'till next time Rob The TR-SC10E is an awesome 4wd short course truck right out of the box but it does have a few areas that could stand some minor improvement. One of those areas is the front steering link ball cups. In a crash, it's possible for the ball cup to pop off of the ball. This isn't a big deal as it can simply be popped back on again but, this has the potential to end a race. Until today, I've simply been replacing the ball cups with new ones (part number E-65) whenever I had a ball cup pop off. These are super cheap but I've been searching for a better / aftermarket alternative. By complete fluke, it turns out that the TR-MT10E monster truck's captured ball cups and studs also fit the TR-SC10E. I beat the tar out of my MT10E and have never had a ball cup pop off so this may be the solution I've been searching for - Woo Hoo!!! Here's the parts needed for the swap:
Here's the stock TR-SC10E ball and ball cup:  Stock TR-SC10E Ball Cup and Stud And below is the TR-MT10E captured ball cup installed:  TR-MT10E Captured Ball Cup and Stud Installed It looks like I'll only be able to use these captured ball cups on the outside end of the steering links. The clearance between the inner ball cup and the gear box housing is very tight and I don't think these slightly larger MT10E ball cups will fit on the inner part without some clearance issues. When I have more time, I may give them a try but some dremel work may be required for the inner links to fit. I'll keep you posted on that... Hopefully this will solve the problem of ball cups popping off once and for all.
By the way, if you found this helpful, please do me a HUGE favor and support me by purchasing your TR-SC10E parts and hop-ups from me and also by using my Amazon links if you make any purchases at Amazon (they'll pay me a small commission) Part 1 - New Body Part 2 - ESC Mount Part 3 - Front Bumper Part 4 - Wheel Nuts Part 5 - Aluminum Rear Hubs and Aluminum Steering Knuckles Part 6 - Rear End Upgrades Part 7 - Front End Upgrades 'till next time Rob A few days ago, I posted some of the upgrades that I added to the rear of my TR-SC10E. I had some more time to work on my truck after that and started to work on the front end. Here are the parts I added:
The Lunsford Upper Links are a MUST do upgrade for the TR-SC10E. Between my son and I, we broke 5 stock upper links on our first race weekend. I added the Lunsfords to my son's truck (he crashes even more than I do) and we haven't had a problem on his truck since. They are a little pricey but the fact that they shouldn't ever break again was well worth the investment.  Lunsford Part # LNS35024 3.5mm x 24mm SUPER DUTY Titanium Turnbuckles Like I did on the rear a few days ago, I also added the TMS-65 Anti-Roll Bar to the front. I had to remove the front bumper in order to install the sway bar but other than that, the installation was pretty straight forward. Because I didn't remove the front clip from the truck prior to doing the installation, I had a difficult time getting access for my calliper to carefully measure the length of exposed sway bar so I had to just "eye ball" it. I think it's close but if I was to do this again, I'd pull the front clip off of the truck.  TM-65 Anti-Sway Bar Install Even though I was running short of time (you can tell by how dirty the truck is still) I couldn't resist the temptation to add the Carbon Fibre Front Top Plate. The installation took less than two minutes and I think it adds a little bit of style to the truck.  TMS-05 Carbon Fiber Front Top Plate Installed I finished up the front end re-build with the installation of aluminum wheel hexes and a quick clean and rebuild of the stock plastic shocks. I filled the shocks with Associated 47.5wt Shock Oil. I have the aluminum shocks for the front and plan to install them some day as well.  12mm Aluminum Wheel Hex Install, Shocks filled with 47.5wt What I would have done differently: I'd have not started the project until I had the time to pull the complete front clip off of the truck and fully disassemble everything. I tried to leave as many parts installed on the chassis as possible and this just made things more difficult and awkward to work on. The next time I do a front end re-build, I'll completely remove everything. That's pretty much it for now, be sure to check out my other TR-SC10E modifications linked below and of course, you can support me by purchasing your TR-SC10E parts and hop-ups from me and also by using my Amazon links if you make any purchases at Amazon (they'll pay me a small commission)
Part 1 - New Body Part 2 - ESC Mount Part 3 - Front Bumper Part 4 - Wheel Nuts Part 5 - Aluminum Rear Hubs and Aluminum Steering Knuckles Part 6 - Rear End Upgrades 'till next time Rob I have started to tear my TR-SC10E down in preparation for an upcoming race and while I was cleaning it, I decided to add a few more upgrades. I started at the rear of the truck with the following parts:
The TM-65 Anti-Roll Bar was a relatively straight forward installation. I had the rear clip removed from the truck and the rear bumper removed from the clip so access to the mounting points was simple. The TR-SC10E factory set-up does not include an anti-roll bar (sway bar). Having been a "basher" all of my life and not a racer, I'm not sure yet what the effects of adding an anti-roll bar will be. The track I run on is a somewhat rough, outdoor track with decent traction. I wouldn't call it loose nor would I call it a high bite track. I've noticed my truck is leaning as it goes through the sweeper so I'm thinking that adding the anti-roll bars front and rear may give me more stability through this long turn.  Anti-Roll / Sway Bar Install I found this Adam Drake tutorial video to be very helpful in the installation and set-up my anti-roll bar. The TMS-08 Universal Drive Shafts were also a simple drop-in installation. The stock dogbone configuration was working fine but when I removed the stock dog bones, I noticed some wear. Rather than install new dogbones, I opted to go with the Universals. They operate very smoothly and quietly so I'm sure I'll keep them installed. I did some quick research on dogbones vs universal joints and it seams some folks like to use dogbones on rough tracks and universals on smooth or high bite tracks. I don't have the skills to tune my truck this closely so will try the universals simply because I like how smoothly they operate.  Universal Shafts Install The TMS-25 Aluminum Wheel Hexes are another item I had set aside for website photography and just couldn't resist the temptation to install these on my truck. I hadn't had any problems with the stock plastic wheel hexes but while my truck was torn down, I figured now would be a great time to add these as well. They look great and I'm sure they will be durable. The only potential week point I can see with these is the rubber o-ring that secures the drive pin. I may try to source some replacement o-rings so that I can replace these from time-to-time.  12mm Aluminum Wheel Hex Install Last but not least, I did a quick clean and rebuild of the stock plastic shocks. I filed off a small amount of flashing left over on the outside of the shock bodies from the molding process to ensure a nice, smooth surface for the shock springs to travel across then filled them with Associated 45wt oil. I intend to install the aluminum shocks at some point but for now, I decided to stick with the stock shocks as they are functioning well and not leaking.  Stock plastic rear shocks filled with 45wt oil What would I do differently next time: Generally, I think it's a good idea to only make one change then test the results before making any additional changes. I didn't take my own advise this time and made a few changes that will effect the handling of my truck and it may be difficult to pin point what improved (or not) and why. The rear suspensions feels rather stiff but I'm not sure if this is due to the addition of the anti-roll bar or the 45wt shock oil. If I was to do this over again, I'd rebuild the truck and only change the shock oil. I'd leave the anti-roll bar for another day. Oh well...I'll have to see how the track testing goes later this week. By the way, if you liked this post, please check out my other TR-SC10E modifications below and of course, you can support me by purchasing your TR-SC10E parts and hop-ups from me and also by using my Amazon links if you make any purchases at Amazon (they'll pay me a small commission)
Part 1 - New Body Part 2 - ESC Mount Part 3 - Front Bumper Part 4 - Wheel Nuts Part 5 - Aluminum Rear Hubs and Aluminum Steering Knuckles 'till next time Rob I normally subscribe to the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" philosophy but, I had a big pile of TR-SC10E aluminum hop-ups sitting in my office waiting to be photographed for the website and I couldn't resist the temptation any longer! These Aluminum Rear Hubs and Aluminum Steering Knuckles were on the top of the pile so I added them first. The rear hub install was super easy and took less than ten minutes. Although the stock plastic hubs seamed to be perfectly fine, these aluminum pieces look great and should add strength to my truck. The hubs come with bearings that fit very snuggly. On my first attempt, one of my bearings didn't seat perfectly in the hub so I had to pop it out and try again. The second attempt dropped nicely into place. Also included with the rear hubs are captured hinge pins. I didn't install these but likely will soon. The only reason I didn't use these was because I was working at my desk and didn't have a hobby knife or drill with me at the time and to install these captured hinge pins requires removing a little plastic from the rear arms (to allow the hinge pin to pass all of the way through the arm).  Aluminum Rear Hubs Installed The Steering Knuckles were also an easy drop-in. The bearings fit snuggly but I learned from the rear hubs to line them up carefully before snapping them in place. I added some blue thread lock to the mounting hardware to ensure the screws stayed in place and the install was complete. Easy as can be. Although the stock plastic knuckles were functioning just fine, I like how these new aluminum pieces look and they should add some strength to my truck as well.  Aluminum Steering Knuckles Installed Check out my other TR-SC10E modifications:
Part 1 - New Body Part 2 - ESC Mount Part 3 - Front Bumper Part 4 - Wheel Nuts 'till next time Rob Here's another quick modification I did to my TR-SC10E that you may want to try as well... The truck comes stock with 4mm nylon lock nuts for wheel nuts. These nuts do not have a flanged edge on them. Although my stock wheel nuts seamed to be working fine, I decided to change mine out for some flanged, nylocs that also have the knurling on the back. The flange should help protect the wheel a little bit and the knurling bites into the wheel to help ensure the nut doesn't come off during a race. I had a dig through my parts bin and found the Everest Gen7 wheel nuts are flanged, have the knurling on the back AND the nylon locking inserts so the likelihood of these coming loose is pretty slim.  Stock nyloc on the left, upgraded flanged wheel nut on the right  Here's the flanged wheel nut installed on my TR-Sc10e Check out my other TR-SC10E modifications:
Part 1 - New Body Part 2 - ESC Mount Part 3 - Front Bumper 'till next time Rob |
